Be Safe with Cabrillo’s 20-Point Water Heater Installation Checklist
Don’t let anyone install a new water heater for you unless they’ve reviewed these steps
A Cabrillo water heater installation will not begin until we’ve answered these questions and more. In fact, we won’t even quote you a price until we can establish exactly what’s needed at your home.
- Water Pressure
- Hot Water Supply
- Hot Water Supply Under Abnormal Load
- Location
- Space
- Flue Vent Size
- Combustion Air
- Relocate
- Safety Stand
- Safety Pan
- Bollard
- Gas Supply Line
- Emergency Gas Shut-off Valve
- Gas Flex Line
- Emergency Water Shut-off Valve
- Seismic Bracing
- Flue Vent Installation
- Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve
- Hot Water Return Line
- Tankless Alternative
Is the water pressure at the water heater acceptable? (Pressure over 80psi can damage your new water heater)
Do you currently have enough hot water under normal conditions? Is the existing water heater sized properly?
Is your hot water supply also adequate during peak periods such as holidays and special events, when your home may have an influx of visitors?
Is the water heater currently installed in a code approved location?
Is there adequate space for the new water heater to be installed?
Is the existing flue vent adequate for the new water heater?
Is there enough combustion air in the current location? (gas heaters need a sufficient supply of oxygen to operate safely)
Would you like to move the water heater to another area? (any remodeling plans in the future?)
Does this installation require an 18″ stand? A stand is required in a garage area or anywhere where vehicles would be parked. If there is a stand currently, is it code approved? Is the stand bolted to the floor?
Is the heater in a location that might require or need the installation of a safety pan? This is a metal containment pan with a drain on the side that will help contain any water that might leak out from under the heater. The drain line must then be run to an approved location.
Is the water heater in a place that would require a bollard? This is a 3″ diameter steel pole placed into the concrete to protect the heater from being hit by a car. You can use a parking guard.
Is the gas line to the water heater up to code? Is it properly secured?
Does the emergency shut-off valve for the gas line work?
Is there a gas flex line going into the heater? How old is it? Old flex lines should be replaced. Any water heater rated at 100,000 B.T.U’s or more cannot use a flex line and must be hard piped.
Does the emergency water shut-off valve work? Is it located where it is accessible?
Is there code approved seismic bracing in the current installation? If so, is it strapped at 4 points?
Is the flue pipe up to code? (this is the pipe that comes out of the top center of the heater and removes the un-burnt gases, carbon monoxide, to the outside) Is it sized properly? Does it work? (we will check) An oversized flue pipe can be a problem and cause condensation that could possibly shorten the life of your heater.
Does the temperature and pressure relief valve terminate in a code approved location? This is a safety valve that all heaters have that will open if the temperature and pressure becomes excessive. If this occurs that scalding hot water must go someplace.
Does it take a long time for certain areas of the house to get hot water? Can some type of hot water return line system be installed?
Is the installation of a tankless heater possible? Tankless heaters can be an effective option and should be examined as a viable alternative.









